The autoroutes in France may knit Normandy to Provence, but you can drive across the entire nation without, it seems, noticing a single thing. "Life doesn’t happen along the Interstate,” William Least Heat-Moon wrote,” it’s against the law.”
But recently I tapped the brakes near the village of Gordes in Provence and drove the winding uphill road to the stone village founded in 1031 and perched like an eyrie above the autoroute.
Tourists blocked the road just outside Gordes, taking selfies on their iPhones with the village as a backdrop. Then in a village café, I discovered that I could order a “Real Manhattan Hot Dog.”
Few things can be as elemental as a place like Gordes, a village built of the stone it stood on, huddled for defense in a hostile place, yet with a town square where a seamstress and a farmer could share a pastis.
Today, by contrast, we live in a whirl of possibility, enabled by the autoroute and the internet, where everywhere is available but nothing is really significant.
If the autoroute and Instagram belong to everyone, I thought, Gordes belongs to where it is.
With or without Le Hot Dog.
“Pretty as a new-laid egg”
Mrs. Ladu, my fifth-grade teacher, was a fierce guardian of the English language. A single “ain’t” evoked her wrath. Since then I’ve tried to keep the faith.
But at lunch in the mountains of East Tennessee recently, the cook came over to ask, “Was you-uns up at church?”
She had me right there.
We were eating grilled cheese sandwiches in a general store where you could buy crankcase oil, ham biscuits, and rat poison at the same place that sold shotgun shells and smelled of old wood.
“I ain’t done nothing,” a man at another table said.
Folklorist Vance Randolph believed the people in the Appalachian Mountains inherited a superior English: “They know that it’s more expressive to say, ‘I ain’t said nothin’ than to say, flabbily and ineffectually, 'I haven’t said anything.' "
Likewise, a mountain cabin built of logs and smelling of hickory smoke can be far more eloquent than a flabby McMansion.
This cabin, with its unpainted boards and crooked corners, might look strange to a flat-lander. But to the family who lived there, “It was pretty as a new-laid egg.”
Even Mrs. Ladu would like that.
A redbud beside a pawn shop
A friend had come back from a road trip: “Stupid churches and sixty feet tall billboards advertising everything from root canals to divorce.” He said, “When everything is the same what's the point of going anywhere?”
He could have been describing US 64, which goes east-west across North Carolina where once brick textile mills worked three shifts. Now the mills are dark, but the lights are on at the Quik-Lube, Mcdonald’s, and Dollar General.
Just as vigorous as the sprouting fast food joints is another thing common to North Carolina: redbud trees. The redbud’s pink blush appears in eastern North Carolina in March and follows springtime across the state until May. Its seeds have wings, perfect for being drafted along US 64 behind eighteen-wheelers. It roots almost anywhere.
On a recent spring morning, I noticed a redbud blooming beside the Silver Dollar Gun and Pawn on US 64 near Asheboro, its roots growing in a cracked parking lot. It reminded me of my friend’s lament and what Leonard Cohen sang:
There is a crack in everything That’s how the light gets in That’s how the light gets in
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